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SNOW SHOEING.

For some mountain enthusiasts, snowshoes are a critical tool to get to the base of a climb or the top of a slope prior to snowboarding down. For others snowshoeing is an end in itself - providing exercise and enjoyment of the winter wonderland. For those without the inclination for skiing, snowshoes offer an easy, gratifying way to access the snowy backcountry. If you can walk, you can snowshoe.

Snowshoes have been used in North America for thousands of years for a variety of purposes, and this evolution has provided the present-day user with a wide range of styles to choose from. Some people prefer styles and materials as near as practicable to traditional models. Others prefer the generally lower maintenance and the latitude for experimentation and innovation permitted by high-tech materials and manufacturing processes.

MATERIALS AND CONSTRUCTION

Traditional - Traditional snowshoes are made with largely organic materials -- wood and varnished rawhide lacing (babiche). Rawhide is laced onto the wooden frame while wet and shrinks as it dries, providing a very stiff and light deck. Both the frame and the rawhide must be varnished regularly as rawhide can absorb four times its weight in water in wet conditions, causing the shoes to lose tension and gain weight. Wooden snowshoes intended for wet conditions are sometimes made with one-piece decks of neoprene or polyethylene, both of which are virtually maintenance-free.

Modern - Modern snowshoes made of varying combinations of aluminum, plastic and neoprene have captured a large share of the market over the last several years. These snowshoes require little maintenance, are extremely tough, can be fitted with mountaineering-style crampons and the bindings allow very precise control, especially on side hills. Therefore, synthetic snowshoes more suitable for more challenging terrain.

Frame

The material that makes up the skeletal shape of the shoe and can either be made of wood or metal. It serves to suspend the decking material of the shoe and acts as the seat for both the binding and the crampons. A strong frame is essential not only for the durability of the shoe but also for its performance.

Decking

The material that comprises the surface area of the shoe. This the part of the shoe that keeps you from sinking into the snow. It can either be solid or webbed and can be made from a wide range of materials.

Cleat

The teeth that are on the bottom of the shoe that provide traction, and allow for more confident stepping. Cleats are an important accessory and come as either a standard feature or can be purchased and attached later.

Harness & Binding

The connecting system between your boot and the snowshoe. Look for comfort and security. The binding should hold your foot in securely without causing discomfort.

Drag

The amount of snowshoe tail that touches the snow as you walk. Some manufacturers use drag to keep the snowshoe straight by acting as a rudder. This technique, though, creates undue work for the user and should not be necessary with an adequate binding.

Determine your snowshoe size: Snowshoe size is determined primarily by body weight and usage. Backcountry snowshoes are going to be made out of sturdier material than their recreational counterparts, thus the differences in price. Check out the weight maximums (including your pack weight if you are carrying one) and match up the specs accordingly. Recreational shoes run around $80 to $140, while backcountry and high altitude shoes will run roughly from $120 to $230.

FLOATATION

The floatation provided by a shoe varies with its surface area and the decking material. With traditional laced decks, the tighter the "weave" of the lacing, the greater the floatation. High-tech solid decks of plastic or neoprene disperse weight over their entire area and provide more floatation for a given size than webbing decks.

The amount of floatation required (and hence the snowshoe style needed) will vary with the combined weight of the snowshoer and their pack, and with the snow conditions. Freshly-fallen powder requires more floatation than wet, heavy snow.

SHAPE AND SIZE

The Beaver Tail looks somewhat like a tennis racket and allows the user to lift only the toe clear of the snow. The tail drags behind, supporting much of the shoe's weight and acts as a rudder to keep the shoe tracking straight. These shoes are great in open terrain, but can be ungainly in heavily-wooded areas where constant changes in direction are called for.

The Bear Paw has an oval shape and requires the user to lift more of the shoe's weight. Although less efficient, they are much more maneuverable for tight places.

Shoe Size - Length and widths will vary for both shapes. Shorter, wider shoes are more maneuverable but their shape makes walking more difficult. They are generally preferred for thickly-forested areas. Mountaineers need a smaller shoe that stows or lashes onto a pack conveniently. Longer, narrower models are most suited to open terrain.

For general use, a curved toe is desirable as it helps lift the snowshoe clear of the snow when walking. For steeper terrain, and particularly for mountaineering, a flat toe is easier to kick into slopes.

Finding good trails: Snowshoes are most effective on fluffy snow over six inches deep. If you are staying on trails, recreational shoes will work fine. For more advanced terrain, make sure to bring maps, a compass, and make sure you watch your available sunlight!

Drink, drink, drink: Snowshoeing is a great workout and you use a lot of fluids in the process. Winter is deceptive as you lose a lot of fluids just breathing in the cold air. Staying hydrated will make sure you have enough energy for the long haul.

Get ready: Aerobic exercises such as walking, running or cycling will get you in great shape for snowshoeing. Being in shape will also make your outing more fun. A guided trip with a group could be a great way to get started.

Equipment: Snowshoes, winter boots and poles (optional), are the only equipment needed. You'll find a variety of snowshoes on the market, including children's and women's-specific models. Take into consideration the kind of snowshoeing you'll be participating in, your height and weight, how much you will be carrying, and choose your shoe accordingly. Most outfitters rent snowshoes and can fit you with an appropriate type and size of shoe for your needs. Modern snowshoes come in all shapes and sizes and are made of lightweight aluminum and durable plastic, allowing you to travel easily on most snow conditions. Snowshoe bindings are infinitely adjustable and will fit around just about any shoe. Make sure you have a good pair of waterproof, winter boots.

Clothing: Dress in layers so you can shed or add clothing as needed. Layers should include thermal underwear, a second insulating layer, a fleece vest, windproof and water repellent pants and jacket, gloves and a hat. Always be prepared for the weather to turn, as you can always remove layers on the trail or leave them in the car. Don't skimp when purchasing apparel—your life may depend on what you're wearing.

Know your limits: Unlike hiking, show shoeing presents the added element of potentially dangerous weather conditions. Experience your first outing on groomed trails in a controlled environment, such as at a cross-country center or ski resort. Save backcountry excursions until you have put some miles on your shoes. Even an experienced snowshoer moves much slower than a person on snow less ground, so unless you are incredibly fit, limit your first outings to just a few miles.

Be prepared: If you are going on a guided tour or out in a controlled environment, an extra layer of clothing, water and sunscreen will probably suffice. But as a rule, whenever you venture out on the trails your daypack should contain the following: two quarts of water, snacks (bring extra), a first aid kit, pocket knife, headlamp, compass, sunscreen, extra clothing, an emergency space blanket, fire starting kit, and a guide book or map. Be aware of local weather forecasts.

Know the trail: Unless the trail is a short, maintained loop, a map or a guidebook is essential. Guidebooks highlight all pertinent information such as trail length, difficulty, what permits are necessary and what time of year the area is open to snowshoers. Guidebooks also highlight points of interest, land features, and supply a brief history of the area. Check in at the Ranger Station or Visitors Area—you may need to purchase a permit anyway—and grab a map and inquire about the weather forecast or any other details that you might need. Pay attention to where you are going so you can retrace your steps should you become lost or turned around.

Leave your itinerary: Always leave your itinerary with a responsible friend stating where you will be and when you plan to return. This way someone will know to call authorities in case you get lost or injured. Make sure you check in when your get back—and tell them about your awesome trip!

Size does matter...a quick guide to finding the right shoe for your weight:
    For backpacking/extended winter hikes
Your weight including the weight of a pack if you're carrying one:
Up to 140 - 8x21
Up to 180 - 8x25
Up to 200 - 9x30
200 and over - 10x36

For recreational use, day trips by the hour
Your weight including the weight of a daypack if you're carrying one:
Up to 140 - 8x21
Up to 180 - 8x25
180 and over - 9x30

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Snowshoe TECHNIQUE

CLIMBING: To ascend a slope, kick the front of your snowshoe into the snow and press down to compact it into a step. Make sure that each new step is sufficiently above the last one to avoid collapse.
DESCENDING: Heel cleats are the key to an easy descent. Keep your knees slightly bent, lean back, and keep your weight on the heel cleats to maintain control.
EDGING: The best way to traverse a slope. Kick the side of the snowshoe into the hillside, engaging the cleats. Swing your heel hard towards the uphill slope, then stomp down, securing the snowshoe edge in the slope. Poles are also helpful.
BREAKING TRAIL: When snowshoeing in a group, walk in a single line behind the leader who's breaking the trail. When it's your turn to lead, take consistent, even steps that are easy for everyone to follow.

SAFETY
This page is intended to serve as a general guide only. There is no quick path to an in depth education in snowshoeing and safety as well as backcountry survival skills.

Avalanches

Avalanches are a serious hazard to any backcountry winter sportsman. The occur most frequently on slopes of between 20 and 60 degrees, with the highest probability of slides occurring between 30 and 45 degrees, usually within 24 hours of a snow fall. Wait a day after a major snowfall for snow to settle.

MAIN AREAS OF DANGER

  • Snow-covered convex slopes. Here the snow is under tension.
  • Slopes where snow has accumulated. They are unstable.
  • Deep, snow-filled gullies.

Precautions

  • The heat of the sun on snow can cause avalanches so before noon travel in shaded areas - keep off those exposed to the sun.
  • After noon, keep to the slopes that have been exposed, avoiding those that are now in the sun for the first time.
  • Avoid small gullies and valleys with steep side walls.
  • Stick to ridges and high ground above avalanche paths - you are more likely to trigger a slide but, if you do, you have a better chance of being on top of the debris or not being carried down at all.
  • Always look out for avalanche activity, even if you do not see it happening. Assess where avalanches started, their direction, and how long ago they took place. They will likely guide to where other avalanches are likely.

Arctic Health

Frostbite, snow blindness and hypothermia are the main hazards of cold weather exposure.

Precautions

  • Wrinkle face to stop stiff patches forming, pulling muscles in every direction. Exercise hands.
  • Watch yourself and others for patches of waxy, reddening or blackened skin, especially faces, ears and hands.
  • AVOID tight clothing which will reduce circulation.
  • Never go out without adequate clothing - however briefly. Avoid getting clothing wet, through sweat or water. Dry it as soon as possible if this happens.
  • Knock snow off before entering shelter, or leave outer clothing at entrance. Snow will melt in warmth giving you more clothing to dry.
  • Wear gloves and keep them dry. NEVER touch metal with bare hands.
  • AVOID spilling gasoline on bare flesh. In sub-zero temperatures it will freeze almost at once and does even more damage than water because of its low melting point.
  • Be especially careful if you have been working hard and are fatigued. If you are sick - rest.

FIRST AID

This page is intended to serve as a general guide only. There is no quick path to an in-depth education in snow science and safety as well as backcountry survival skills.

HYPOTHERMIA

Technical name for the condition where the body cannot generate heat as fast as it loses heat and its temperature falls below normal. It is caused by exposure to wind, rain, and low temperatures and also brought on by:

  • Exhaustion
  • Inadequate clothing
  • Inadequate shelter
  • Inadequate food intake
  • Lack of knowledge or preparation.

The conditions which aggravate hypothermia are exactly those likely to occur in the polar regions - though it can occur under any cold conditions, especially as a result of wind chill. It is a common problem for anyone exposed to very cold conditions. It is a killer and must be treated as soon as it is recognized. Prevent it by sheltering when conditions are bad and by keeping dry. Avoid over exertion and if in a group use the 'buddy system'. Watch each other carefully, so that you can recognize symptoms early. If one person goes down with hypothermia others in the group may be near to it. Check everyone for symptoms.

  • Signs & Symptoms: Irrational behavior, typified by sudden bursts of energy followed by lethargy. Slowing down of responses, failing to respond to questions or instructions. Sudden uncontrolled fits of shivering. Loss of coordination, stumbling and falling. Headaches, blurred vision and abdominal pains. Collapse, stupor or unconsciousness.
  • Aggravating factors: Soaked clothing, with high winds. Low air temperature accompanied by high winds. Immersion in water. Any injury that immobilizes and reduces the ability to produce heat. Anxiety and mental stress. unusual thinness.
  • Treatment: Prevent any further heat loss. Shelter from wind and weather. Replace wet clothing with dry. Do NOT strip off completely, remove one garment at a time and replace it with a dry one. Insulate patient from the ground and apply warmth (other bodies, hot rocks). Give warm fluids and sugary foods - but only if conscious.

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