| For some mountain enthusiasts,
snowshoes are a critical tool to get to the base of a climb or the top of a slope prior to
snowboarding down. For others snowshoeing is an end in itself - providing exercise and
enjoyment of the winter wonderland. For those without the inclination for skiing,
snowshoes offer an easy, gratifying way to access the snowy backcountry. If you can walk,
you can snowshoe. Snowshoes have
been used in North America for thousands of years for a variety of purposes, and this
evolution has provided the present-day user with a wide range of styles to choose from.
Some people prefer styles and materials as near as practicable to traditional models.
Others prefer the generally lower maintenance and the latitude for experimentation and
innovation permitted by high-tech materials and manufacturing processes.
MATERIALS AND
CONSTRUCTION
Traditional -
Traditional snowshoes are made with largely organic materials -- wood and varnished
rawhide lacing (babiche). Rawhide is laced onto the wooden frame while wet and shrinks as
it dries, providing a very stiff and light deck. Both the frame and the rawhide must be
varnished regularly as rawhide can absorb four times its weight in water in wet
conditions, causing the shoes to lose tension and gain weight. Wooden snowshoes intended
for wet conditions are sometimes made with one-piece decks of neoprene or polyethylene,
both of which are virtually maintenance-free.
Modern - Modern
snowshoes made of varying combinations of aluminum, plastic and neoprene have captured a
large share of the market over the last several years. These snowshoes require little
maintenance, are extremely tough, can be fitted with mountaineering-style crampons and the
bindings allow very precise control, especially on side hills. Therefore, synthetic
snowshoes more suitable for more challenging terrain. |
|
Frame
|
The material that makes up the skeletal shape of the shoe and can
either be made of wood or metal. It serves to suspend the decking material of the shoe and
acts as the seat for both the binding and the crampons. A strong frame is essential not
only for the durability of the shoe but also for its performance. |
Decking
|
The material that comprises the surface area of the shoe. This the part
of the shoe that keeps you from sinking into the snow. It can either be solid or webbed
and can be made from a wide range of materials. |
Cleat
|
The teeth that are on the bottom of the shoe that provide traction, and
allow for more confident stepping. Cleats are an important accessory and come as either a
standard feature or can be purchased and attached later. |
Harness & Binding
|
The connecting system between your boot and the snowshoe. Look for
comfort and security. The binding should hold your foot in securely without causing
discomfort. |
Drag
|
The amount of snowshoe tail that touches the snow as you walk. Some
manufacturers use drag to keep the snowshoe straight by acting as a rudder. This
technique, though, creates undue work for the user and should not be necessary with an
adequate binding. |
Determine your snowshoe size: Snowshoe size is determined primarily
by body weight and usage. Backcountry snowshoes are going to be made out of sturdier
material than their recreational counterparts, thus the differences in price. Check out
the weight maximums (including your pack weight if you are carrying one) and match up the
specs accordingly. Recreational shoes run around $80 to $140, while backcountry and high
altitude shoes will run roughly from $120 to $230.
FLOATATION
The floatation provided by a shoe varies
with its surface area and the decking material. With traditional laced decks, the tighter
the "weave" of the lacing, the greater the floatation. High-tech solid decks of
plastic or neoprene disperse weight over their entire area and provide more floatation for
a given size than webbing decks.
The amount of floatation required (and
hence the snowshoe style needed) will vary with the combined weight of the snowshoer and
their pack, and with the snow conditions. Freshly-fallen powder requires more floatation
than wet, heavy snow.
SHAPE AND SIZE
The Beaver Tail looks
somewhat like a tennis racket and allows the user to lift only the toe clear of the snow.
The tail drags behind, supporting much of the shoe's weight and acts as a rudder to keep
the shoe tracking straight. These shoes are great in open terrain, but can be ungainly in
heavily-wooded areas where constant changes in direction are called for.
The Bear Paw has an oval
shape and requires the user to lift more of the shoe's weight. Although less efficient,
they are much more maneuverable for tight places.
Shoe Size - Length and
widths will vary for both shapes. Shorter, wider shoes are more maneuverable but their
shape makes walking more difficult. They are generally preferred for thickly-forested
areas. Mountaineers need a smaller shoe that stows or lashes onto a pack conveniently.
Longer, narrower models are most suited to open terrain.
For general use, a curved
toe is desirable as it helps lift the snowshoe clear of the snow when walking. For steeper
terrain, and particularly for mountaineering, a flat toe is easier to kick into slopes.
Finding good trails: Snowshoes are most effective on fluffy snow over six inches
deep. If you are staying on trails, recreational shoes will work fine. For more advanced
terrain, make sure to bring maps, a compass, and make sure you watch your available
sunlight!
Drink, drink, drink: Snowshoeing is a great workout and you use a lot of fluids
in the process. Winter is deceptive as you lose a lot of fluids just breathing in the cold
air. Staying hydrated will make sure you have enough energy for the long haul.
Get ready: Aerobic exercises such as walking, running or cycling will get you in
great shape for snowshoeing. Being in shape will also make your outing more fun. A guided
trip with a group could be a great way to get started.
Equipment: Snowshoes, winter boots and poles (optional), are the only equipment
needed. You'll find a variety of snowshoes on the market, including children's and
women's-specific models. Take into consideration the kind of snowshoeing you'll be
participating in, your height and weight, how much you will be carrying, and choose your
shoe accordingly. Most outfitters rent snowshoes and can fit you with an appropriate type
and size of shoe for your needs. Modern snowshoes come in all shapes and sizes and are
made of lightweight aluminum and durable plastic, allowing you to travel easily on most
snow conditions. Snowshoe bindings are infinitely adjustable and will fit around just
about any shoe. Make sure you have a good pair of waterproof, winter boots.
Clothing: Dress in layers so you can shed or add clothing as needed. Layers
should include thermal underwear, a second insulating layer, a fleece vest, windproof and
water repellent pants and jacket, gloves and a hat. Always be prepared for the weather to
turn, as you can always remove layers on the trail or leave them in the car. Don't skimp
when purchasing apparelyour life may depend on what you're wearing.
Know your limits: Unlike hiking, show shoeing presents the added element of
potentially dangerous weather conditions. Experience your first outing on groomed trails
in a controlled environment, such as at a cross-country center or ski resort. Save
backcountry excursions until you have put some miles on your shoes. Even an experienced
snowshoer moves much slower than a person on snow less ground, so unless you are incredibly
fit, limit your first outings to just a few miles.
Be prepared: If you are going on a guided tour or out in a controlled
environment, an extra layer of clothing, water and sunscreen will probably suffice. But as
a rule, whenever you venture out on the trails your daypack should contain the following:
two quarts of water, snacks (bring extra), a first aid kit, pocket knife, headlamp,
compass, sunscreen, extra clothing, an emergency space blanket, fire starting kit, and a
guide book or map. Be aware of local weather forecasts.
Know the trail: Unless the trail is a short, maintained loop, a map or a
guidebook is essential. Guidebooks highlight all pertinent information such as trail
length, difficulty, what permits are necessary and what time of year the area is open to
snowshoers. Guidebooks also highlight points of interest, land features, and supply a
brief history of the area. Check in at the Ranger Station or Visitors Areayou may
need to purchase a permit anywayand grab a map and inquire about the weather
forecast or any other details that you might need. Pay attention to where you are going so
you can retrace your steps should you become lost or turned around.
Leave your itinerary: Always leave your itinerary with a responsible friend
stating where you will be and when you plan to return. This way someone will know to call
authorities in case you get lost or injured. Make sure you check in when your get
backand tell them about your awesome trip!
Size does matter...a quick guide to finding the right shoe
for your weight:
For backpacking/extended winter hikes
Your weight including the weight of a pack if you're carrying one:
Up to 140 - 8x21
Up to 180 - 8x25
Up to 200 - 9x30
200 and over - 10x36
For recreational use, day trips by the hour
Your weight including the weight of a daypack if you're carrying one:
Up to 140 - 8x21
Up to 180 - 8x25
180 and over - 9x30
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CLIMBING: To ascend a slope, kick
the front of your snowshoe into the snow and press down to compact it into a step. Make
sure that each new step is sufficiently above the last one to avoid collapse.
DESCENDING: Heel cleats are the key to an easy descent. Keep your knees slightly bent,
lean back, and keep your weight on the heel cleats to maintain control.
EDGING: The best way to traverse a slope. Kick the side of the snowshoe into the hillside,
engaging the cleats. Swing your heel hard towards the uphill slope, then stomp down,
securing the snowshoe edge in the slope. Poles are also helpful.
BREAKING TRAIL: When snowshoeing in a group, walk in a single line behind the leader who's
breaking the trail. When it's your turn to lead, take consistent, even steps that are easy
for everyone to follow. |
SAFETY
This page is intended to serve as a general guide only. There is no quick
path to an in depth education in snowshoeing and safety as well as backcountry survival
skills.
Avalanches
Avalanches are a serious hazard to any backcountry winter sportsman. The
occur most frequently on slopes of between 20 and 60 degrees, with the highest probability
of slides occurring between 30 and 45 degrees, usually within 24 hours of a snow fall. Wait
a day after a major snowfall for snow to settle.
MAIN AREAS OF DANGER
- Snow-covered convex slopes. Here the snow is under
tension.
- Slopes where snow has accumulated. They are unstable.
- Deep, snow-filled gullies.
Precautions
- The heat of the sun on snow can cause avalanches so
before noon travel in shaded areas - keep off those exposed to the sun.
- After noon, keep to the slopes that have been exposed,
avoiding those that are now in the sun for the first time.
- Avoid small gullies and valleys with steep side walls.
- Stick to ridges and high ground above avalanche paths -
you are more likely to trigger a slide but, if you do, you have a better chance of being
on top of the debris or not being carried down at all.
- Always look out for avalanche activity, even if you do
not see it happening. Assess where avalanches started, their direction, and how long ago
they took place. They will likely guide to where other avalanches are likely.
Arctic Health
Frostbite, snow blindness and hypothermia are the main hazards of cold
weather exposure.
Precautions
- Wrinkle face to stop stiff patches forming, pulling
muscles in every direction. Exercise hands.
- Watch yourself and others for patches of waxy, reddening
or blackened skin, especially faces, ears and hands.
- AVOID tight clothing which will reduce circulation.
- Never go out without adequate clothing - however briefly.
Avoid getting clothing wet, through sweat or water. Dry it as soon as possible if this
happens.
- Knock snow off before entering shelter, or leave outer
clothing at entrance. Snow will melt in warmth giving you more clothing to dry.
- Wear gloves and keep them dry. NEVER touch metal with
bare hands.
- AVOID spilling gasoline on bare flesh. In sub-zero
temperatures it will freeze almost at once and does even more damage than water because of
its low melting point.
- Be especially careful if you have been working hard and
are fatigued. If you are sick - rest.
FIRST AID
This page is intended to serve as a general guide only. There is no
quick path to an in-depth education in snow science and safety as well as backcountry
survival skills.
Technical name for the condition where the body cannot
generate heat as fast as it loses heat and its temperature falls below normal. It is
caused by exposure to wind, rain, and low temperatures and also brought on by:
- Exhaustion
- Inadequate clothing
- Inadequate shelter
- Inadequate food intake
- Lack of knowledge or preparation.
The conditions which aggravate hypothermia are exactly those likely to
occur in the polar regions - though it can occur under any cold conditions, especially as
a result of wind chill. It is a common problem for anyone exposed to very cold conditions.
It is a killer and must be treated as soon as it is recognized. Prevent it by sheltering
when conditions are bad and by keeping dry. Avoid over exertion and if in a group use the
'buddy system'. Watch each other carefully, so that you can recognize symptoms early. If
one person goes down with hypothermia others in the group may be near to it. Check
everyone for symptoms.
- Signs & Symptoms: Irrational
behavior, typified by sudden bursts of energy followed by lethargy. Slowing down of
responses, failing to respond to questions or instructions. Sudden uncontrolled fits of
shivering. Loss of coordination, stumbling and falling. Headaches, blurred vision and
abdominal pains. Collapse, stupor or unconsciousness.
- Aggravating factors: Soaked clothing,
with high winds. Low air temperature accompanied by high winds. Immersion in water. Any
injury that immobilizes and reduces the ability to produce heat. Anxiety and mental
stress. unusual thinness.
- Treatment: Prevent any further heat
loss. Shelter from wind and weather. Replace wet clothing with dry. Do NOT strip off
completely, remove one garment at a time and replace it with a dry one. Insulate patient
from the ground and apply warmth (other bodies, hot rocks). Give warm fluids and sugary
foods - but only if conscious.
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