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Buying a Canoe
The front end of a canoe is the bow, the back end
the stern. Now that that's out of the way...... Every canoe has top edges, or
gunwales (pronounced GUNnels). These are made of vinyl (durable, economical, and
quiet when bumped with your paddle), wood (sometimes lighter, generally
prettier, and requiring higher maintenance), or aluminum (tough and flexible).
Thwarts are crosspieces that add rigidity, and serve as attachment points for
yokes, seat supports, and gear tie-in. Seats, in a variety of materials, affect
comfort and stability. Some flat-water models have "tractor seats," often
designed to slide back and forth for optimum trim adjustment. They also provide
long-range comfort, but if mounted too low, they can make it hard to kneel if
necessary.
Design Length
is probably a canoe's single most distinguishing design feature. Canoes vary
in length from less than 10 feet, for fast-turning, tight-maneuvering solo
whitewater canoes, to stretch-limo-length, 23-foot, four-person wilderness
Canoes. In general, shorter canoes are better for faster turning, while
increased length is associated with better tracking (however, there are many
exceptions). A longer boat can also carry more gear. The average length for
general tandem canoes is 15 to 18 feet. Remember, though, that longer may
also mean more cumbersome to carry and load on your car (but not always
heavier). Maximum width varies from about 33 to 40 inches for tandem canoes.
As you might expect, a "fatter" canoe tends to feel more stable, but it
tracks less efficiently and may make it harder to make efficient strokes.
Bow and stern profiles, called the stem, affect the way a canoe slices
through water. A vertical entry slices cleanly and maximizes boat length in
the water. That means good tracking and excellent resistance to sidewind,
but a reduced ability to spin fast, and possibly a wet ride in waves. Stems
can also be "recurved" (slanted backward) or raked (slanted forward). A more
rounded entry adds to the canoe's ability to ride up and over waves but
doesn't track as effortlessly (you'll also hear references to high- and low-
"volume" bows).
Rocker, Take a lengthwise view of a canoe or kayak on dry land. How much
of the keel-line touches the floor, and how much curves up banana-style?
This is rocker. More rocker means faster spinning and a drier,
up-and-over (if sometimes jolting) ride in waves, with the trade-offs of
poorer tracking and more vulnerability to wind.
Tumblehome refers to the way some canoes bulge below the gunwales. Like
rocker, the amount varies from canoe to canoe. Tumblehome adds stability
while still allowing a paddler to take efficient vertical strokes. It
can also aid in making turns when the boat is leaned sharply. The
transition between the bottom and sides is called "chine," and it can be
"hard" and abrupt (giving a more "edgy" performance) or "soft" and
smooth. Together, chine and tumblehome affect many factors, including
turning and "secondary stability," or how the boat handles when leaned.
The first step a person should make when
getting ready to buy a canoe is figure out how you are going to use
your canoe the most because a canoe that is perfect for one thing
may not be good for others! What your dream outing might be and what
you may actually have the time and motivation to do are going to
sometimes be totally different. Be realistic. Don't buy your first
canoe with the hopes to someday take that weeklong trip or that
larger tandem boat if you are going to be paddling solo.
Where you live is also a big factor. Most
people end up paddling close to home and already have any idea of what
type of water to expect. Although most canoes can be used in many
different situations, If you are surrounded by lakes, chances are you
will spend most of you time on them and occasionally take the extra
drive to the river.
Do you want a boat that you can paddle
either tandem or solo? Many 14- to 16-footers will accommodate 2 people
and still be able to be used by 1. Are you planning on long trips with
lots of gear? Make that at least 16 feet, preferably longer (18 feet is
a common length for wilderness trippers). Will you be paddling across
big lakes? Make sure your canoe is deep enough to not take on water if
the waves whip up. Are you a small person, or do you have health
concerns like back trouble that might keep you from lifting a heavy
canoe? Consider spending more money for a lighter canoe: if you can't
load it on the car, you aren't likely to use it.
Experienced friends and relatives can be
excellent sources of information, ask around.
Some of the more important factors when
choosing a canoe are:
Weight, the lighter the boat the easier to load and portage, the more it
will get used.
Durability, you have to be sure that the boat will handle the waters you
want to use it in.
and Cost, maybe a used canoe from a local shop or a boat rental is all
you need. This is a good way to get a sometimes better boat for less
money then if you went to a shop with the same amount and asked what you
can get for it. But when it comes to the price, often time the cheaper
the boat the heavier and less durable it is! Canoes made of lightweight
composites such as a Kevlar or graphite can weigh a feathery 35
pounds-but they won't take the beating of a rocky river and are
expensive. Fiberglass is a common material; cost and weight vary
quite a bit. Plastic polymers (polyethylene) cost less but they're
heavier and but will take more of a beating and still keep there shape
better then Aluminum. Aluminum is durable but relatively heavy, and
noisy when you tap it with a paddle. Wood is beautiful, but isn't cheap,
and easily damaged.
If you really want to get into the sport
maybe spend a little less and you can upgrade later when you know better
what type of paddling you like and how much you actually use the boat.
The most important thing when buying a
canoe is test them whenever possible! many shops have "Demo Days" where
many different types of boats by many manufacturers boats are available
for you to try for free or for a very small fee.
Whatever type of boat you do decide to
purchase, take care of it.
Even if it is the $350.00 boat it is still a waste of money if it never
gets used!!!
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What to bring along: Equipment
Always wear a lifejacket when boating.
Children less than 12 years old must wear a life jacket in a
canoe, kayak, or boat less than 20 feet in length.
canoe/kayak/raft, a paddle for each person and a spare if possible
PFD (life jacket) for each person
old sneakers or river shoes to protect feet against sharp rocks.
sunscreen and hat to protect against sunburn
insect repellent
sunglasses with glasses strap
one gallon of water per person per day. Do not drink river or stream water
unless it is boiled at least three minutes or treated.
meals for the trip and some extra
trash bags (carry in/carry out!)
water bailer, kneeling pads
waterproof bags ("dry bags" bags)
raingear, windbreaker (Weather on the river can change rapidly.)
map or guidebook
flashlight
Spare car keys
Store gear in waterproof containers tied to boat!
In addition to the equipment mentioned above for a day-trip on the river, be
sure to bring the following for an overnight trip:
change of clothes, extra socks (wool or high
performance synthetic fibers are recommended, even in summer)
sleeping bag
tent
ground cloth
portable cook stove
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What to Wear
Whenever going boating always dress with getting
wet in mind! You may not always get wet on that leisurely lake paddle but if
you do, you will be happy you dressed properly. Or regret you wardrobe
choice if you didn't.
WARM WEATHER PADDLING
There are a number of lightweight, waterproof,
breathable, synthetics that crush down to a small size for packing. Supplex,
Ultrasensor, and Solumbra garments are super lightweight garments that
provide UV protection while keeping you cool. You might want some kind of
water- and windproof shell that is water resistant and breathable. In sunny
or summer conditions it is essential to have a hat to protect you from the
sun.
MODERATE WEATHER PADDLING
A good first layer is lightweight polyester
fleece, or some other synthetic. silk will work also. On top of this, some
people will wear nylon shorts or pants and have another layer of heavier
poly for the top that wicks moisture away from your skin. Some fabrics are
woven so densely, they become an effective water and wind barrier by
themselves. It is a good idea to have a paddling jacket. Latex gaskets
around the wrists will prevent water in your sleeves.
COLD CLIMATE PADDLING
Many paddlers of all types who have problems
with cold water often become hypothermic; even moderate wind will get you
wet enough to affect your body temperature. Once you lose a little dexterity
and judgment (signs of hypothermia) the chances of capsize rapidly increase.
You lose heat in the water 27 times faster than you would in still air of
the same temperature. Wet suits come in a variety of shapes and sizes and
insulate you from the surrounding cold water. Some wet suits are lined with
polypro to make them more comfortable and warmer. For the ultimate in
cold-water protection, you'll want a dry suit. This is a waterproof suit
with a waterproof zipper and latex gaskets. Wear it with polypro underneath
and you're ready for anything.
EXTRAS
It is also important to keep your feet and hands
warm and dry. Sport sandals are great for warm days. Dedicated paddlesport
shoes work well in moderate conditions. You can always warm these up with
poly fleece socks. Neoprene booties work great too. Thin neoprene gloves are
okay for moderate conditions
Wearing the right clothing will have a large impact on performance while
paddling, making your trip more comfortable and enjoyable.
Dressing for an overnight lake paddling trip that starts midday the first
day is not how you might be better dressed for an early morning start the
following day. Think ahead and you might decide to pack the extra layer that
will make the cold evenings or morning more enjoyable for everyone..
Canoeing for People with
Disabilities
Canoeing is a sport that is entirely different
from anything a person with a disability has thought about, in fact an activity
that most-able bodied people would never have considered. Given the correct
coaching and adaptability of equipment, it is possible for all to enjoy
canoeing.
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For Your Safety
Do not be misled by the calm appearance of ANY river. Even a canoeist can drown.
Always wear your life jacket! Have it fastened properly. It can't save
you if you don't have it on.
Make sure your life jacket (PFD) is in good condition and be sure it can support
your weight.
Never drink alcoholic beverages while swimming or boating.
Most drownings are swimming related. Never try to swim across a river.
Be aware that in many cases motorboats also use the waters.
Plan to be off the river before dark.
Never stand in your canoe. Kneel in your canoe while going through riffles for
better stability.
If you capsize, DO NOT PANIC
- Stay with your canoe - even a swamped canoe will
support you.
- Keep on the upstream side of the canoe, to avoid
being pinned against a rock or obstacle.
- If you lose your canoe, float on your back
with your feet downstream to protect yourself against rocks.
- Don't try to stand in rapids: the current
can trap your legs and push you under.
- Save people first! Retrieve canoes and
equipment only if it can be done safely.
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Amidships - The area
roughly in the center of the canoe lengthwise.
Beam - The width of a canoe or kayak measured at the widest
point.
Bent-Shaft Paddle - A canoe paddle with a bend in the
shaft, usually at its throat. Increases efficiency (power), with varying
compromise in control.
Blade - The wide, flat area of a paddle, used for
propulsion.
Bow - Front of the canoe or kayak.
Bulkhead - A sealed compartment fore or aft in a decked canoe or
kayak. Primarily required for flotation but also used as storage area.
Canoe - An open craft with pointed ends that is propelled
with a single-bladed paddle. Also called an "open boat."
Chine - The edge of the kayak; transition area between hull
and deck.
Class I-VI - International standard classification system
for rating the difficulty of rapids, with I being the easiest.
Coaming - See Cockpit.
Cockpit - The opening in the deck of a kayak or closed
canoe where the paddler sits. The curved lip around its edge, used to secure
a spray skirt, is the coaming.
Deck - Closed-in area over the bow and/or stern of a canoe
or kayak. Sheds water and, on a canoe, adds strength to the gunwales.
Draw Stroke - Used to move the boat sideways. Performed by
placing the paddle into the water parallel to the boat at an arm's reach
away, then pulling boat over to it.
Feathered Paddle - A kayak paddle in which the blades are
set at an angle to each other to present the edge to the wind.
Ferry - A maneuver used to cross a current with little or
no downstream travel. Uses the current to move a boat laterally.
Final Stability - Also called "secondary stability."
Describes a boat's resistance to tipping once it has been leaned to a point
beyond its "initial stability."
Flare - A hull cross section that grows wider as it rises
from the waterline toward the gunwales.
Freeboard - The vertical distance measured from a boat's
waterline to the lowest part of its gunwale.
Grab Loop - A short rope or grab-handle threaded through
the bow/stern stems of a kayak or canoe to assist with portaging and
carrying. Also refers to the safety strap attached to the front of the spray
skirt.
Gradient - The steepness of a riverbed over a specified
distance, usually per mile.
Grip - The end of a canoe paddle opposite the blade.
Gunwales - Structural supports that run end to end along
the top of the hull. Inside strips are "inwales"; outside are "outwales."
Hatch - Access port on the front and/or rear deck of a
touring or sea kayak.
Hull - The body of a canoe or kayak; the area that has the
greatest impact on how the boat and water interact.
Hull Configuration - Shape of the hull, or that part
affected by water, wind, and waves.
Initial Stability - Term used to describe a boat's
resistance to leaning ("tippiness").
Kayak - A decked boat that is paddled from a seated
position using a two-bladed paddle.
Keel - A strip or extrusion along the bottom of a boat to
prevent (theoretically) side-slipping. Adds rigidity or hull support.
Keel Line - The longitudinal shape of the canoe's bottom
when looked at from the side.
Lay-Up - Manner in which layers of fiberglass, Kevlar, or
carbon fiber are placed to make a composite canoe or kayak.
Life Jacket - Personal buoyancy vest required by law for
every passenger of all watercraft. See PFD.
Off-Side
- Side of boat opposite the paddle.
On-Side - Side that you're paddling on.
Paddle - Primary tool for propelling canoes/kayaks. See
Blade, Shaft, Throat.
PFD - Personal Flotation Device. See Life Jacket.
Portaging - Traditional term for carrying boats and gear,
usually around a rapid or between lakes.
Pry Stroke - Turning stroke in which the paddle blade is
turned sideways alongside the gunwale, then "pried" outward.
Put-In - The starting point of a paddling trip; where the
boats are launched into the water.
Ribs - Pieces of material spaced on the inside of a canoe
hull to form its frame.
River Left - On the left side of the river facing
downstream.
River Right - On the right side of the river facing
downstream.
Rocker - Upward curvature of the keel line from the center
toward the ends of a boat. Lots of rocker means quick, easy turns.
Roll - A self-rescue technique used to right an overturned
kayak or canoe in the water without leaving the boat.
Rudder - Typically a foot-controlled steering device on
touring or sea kayaks.
Secondary Stability - A hull's tendency to stabilize as
it's leaned to one side. See Hull Configuration, Initial Stability.
Shaft - The area of a paddle between the upper grip and the
blade.
Skeg - A fixed rudder.
Spray Skirt - A tight waterproof cover designed to prevent
water from entering the inside of a kayak. It attaches to both the cockpit
rim and the kayaker.
Stem - The endpiece of a canoe or kayak hull, connecting
the keel to the bow.
Stern - The back end of a boat.
Sweep Stroke - Used to turn the boat to the off-side by
reaching out and ahead, then "sweeping" in a wide arc fore to aft.
Take-Out - The ending point of a paddling trip; where the
boats are finally taken from the water. See Put-In.
Tandem - Two-person canoe or kayak.
Throat - Junction of paddle shaft and blade.
Thwart - A cross-brace between the sides of a canoe. The
center thwart should be the balance point of the canoe.
Tracking - The ability of a boat to hold a straight course
due to its hull design.
Trim - A trim boat is level, side-to-side and end-to-end.
Achieved by shifting the load or position of the paddlers.
Tumblehome - Term used to describe a hull cross section
that curves inward from the waterline toward the gunwales.
Volume - Used to describe overall capacity of a given hull
shape.
Waterline - A point to which the water rises along the hull
of a boat; the shape of the waterline and the handling characteristics of
the boat change as the load changes.
Yoke - A padded, modified thwart used as a shoulder rest to
carry a canoe overhead.
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Where to go
Canoeing
The Upper Delaware
The Upper Delaware Scenic and
Recreational River runs 73 miles from Hancock to Port Jervis,
New York. Five miles downstream from Port Jervis begins the
Delaware Water Gap National Recreational Area, which covers 40
miles of river. The entire 118 miles or so makes for an
excellent extended float trip.
Put in on the West Branch of the
Delaware near Hancock, just above the entry of the East Branch,
at Shehawken Access Area. The final take out will be Kittatinny
Access Area (Delaware Water Gap Visitor Center) on the New
Jersey side just below the I-80 bridge. While you could average
20 miles per day in months of good flow, your pace will be
slower in late summer as the water level is much lower.
If you are doing your own
shuttle, allow lots of time. The roads along the river are slow
and sometimes congested as they wind up and down the hilly
country of the Delaware valley.
Interesting Features --
The Delaware River flows through a dramatic valley with rocky
bluffs overlooking the river in places. Steep valley walls are
almost continuous on the upper river, giving way to a broader
valley farther downstream. Forests dominated by sugar maple
drape the hillsides, while silver maple and sycamore line the
riverbanks and islands.
The upper section of the river
has more gradient and a few Class II rapids. These can be
dangerous at high water levels. The lower section has many
shoals and fun riffles, but is less challenging. At low water
levels typical of the summer months, the river runs over many
shallow shoals with large exposed rocks. It is difficult to
impossible to plot a clear course through these areas,
particularly in the upper section. On the upper river you will
also encounter man-made obstacles in the form of "eel weirs"
(rock dams built in the shape of a downstream "v" to trap eels).
The Delaware is the most popular
float stream in the northeast US, and on summer week ends you
will encounter many casual floaters in rafts, tubes, and canoes.
During the week and in the off season there will be fewer of
these. Almost all the floaters are day trippers.
There are roads running along the
river throughout, so you will never be too far from
civilization.
Wildlife viewing is excellent on
the Delaware. Bear, otter, and bald eagles are often spotted by
floaters; deer, geese, and other river critters are abundant.
A most dramatic geologic feature
is the Delaware Water Gap, where the river has cut through a
major ridge of the Appalachian mountains.
There are many hiking
opportunities on public lands in the Delaware Water Gap NRA. The
Appalachian Trail crosses the Delaware River near the end of
this run.
Camping -- On the upper
Delaware, there are many private camps along the way. The land
along the river is nearly all private, trespassing is frowned
upon, and it is generally agreed that canoe campers must stay at
one of these private camps. If you rent a canoe, take care where
you plan your camping destination. Some camps are owned by
rental agencies and do not allow customers of their competitors
to camp! There is one section of public land on the Pennsylvania
side just above Port Jervis where you can primitive camp by
permit.
The Delaware Water Gap
In the Delaware Water Gap NRA
(below Port Jervis), the National Park Service allows camping at
many designated riverside sites for through canoeists. Most of
these have fire grates, and some have privies, but they are not
accessible by public road. These are available on a first come
basis without permit.
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